Embroidery Terms Glossary.
3D Foam
Foam that is used to add dimension to an embroidery pattern that is typically used on caps. The 3D Foam is placed on the topside of the pattern and stitched over with shortened stitches to cut the Foam. The excessive foam is then pulled away from the embroidery giving a 3D appearance. 3D Foams are available in various thickness.
Appliqué
1) Decoration or trimming cut from one piece of fabric and stitched to another, usually with a satin stitch, to add dimension and texture. If the appliqué occupies a significant amount of the design, the stitch count can be reduced.
2) In Schiffli embroidery, an embroidered motif is usually cut away from the base fabric and then stitched onto the finished product.
Arm Machine
Embroidery machine that has an arm or cylinder that the hook and bobbin are mounted in. Allows the use of special frames for embroidering caps, socks, inside pockets, etc. The cylinder-shaped arm allows goods to curve around the cylinder for embroidery.
Automatic Color Change
The ability of a multi-needle embroidery machine to follow a command to change to another specified needle with a different color thread in it. Many embroidery heads have as many as ten needles allowing the digitizer to program the use of ten different thread colors without stopping the machine.
Backing
Woven or non-woven material used underneath the item being embroidered to provide support and stability. Sometimes referred to as a stabilizer in the home embroidery market. Backing can be large enough to be hooped with the item being embroidered, or placed between the machine needle plate and the hooped garment. Available in various weights and in various types of material that can be either in precut sheets or rolls. Backings can also be cutaway, tear-away, or specialty. See also Toppings & 3D-foam.
Bean Stitch
Three stitches placed back and forth between two points. Often used for outlining because it provides a bolder stitch appearance than a run stitch and requires fewer stitches than a satin stitch.
Bird Nesting
Collection of thread between the fabric being sewn and the needle plate that generally causes thread breaks and sewing problems. Bird nesting can be caused by improper thread tension (needle thread tension too loose); machine not threaded properly; bobbin case not installed properly; excessive flagging; and poor digitizing.
Bobbin
Small spool or reel that is wound with the thread used on lockstitch machines. Bobbins can be wound on the sewing machine or come pre-wound from the thread supplier. Generally, pre-wound bobbins contain much higher yardage than machine wound bobbins allowing for fewer bobbin changes. The most common bobbin size for embroidery machines is a style “L” bobbin, even though other special large hook machines may use style “M” bobbins. One of the most common pre-wound bobbins used is a T-16 (V-15) CF polyester bobbin.
Bobbin Case
Round assembly that applies tension to the bobbin thread and holds the bobbin in the machine. The latch mechanism locks the bobbin case into the hook. It is important that the embroidery machine operator be trained to properly install the bobbin case in the machine to minimize costly repairs of the machine. After the bobbin case in properly positioned to the bobbin case holder in the hook, it should then snap on the spindle when it is fully loaded. Most embroidery machines use an “L” size bobbin and bobbin case; even though sometimes larger hook styles are used.
Bobbin Tension
Bobbin thread tension should be set so very little thread is consumed in each stitch. Therefore, the bobbin thread is tight enough to consistently hold the needle thread down on the underneath side of the embroidered item. See tension.
Bridge Machine
Embroidery machine with two shafts, one for the hook assembly and one for the needle assembly. Sewing heads are suspended from a beam allowing for larger sewing fields than an arm machine. Bridge machines are accessible from both back and the front of the machine through the “bridge”.
Buckram
Coarse, woven backing fabric that is usually very stiff. It is used to stabilize fabric for stitching and commonly used in caps to hold the front panel with the embroidery pattern erect.
Cap Frames
Specialized embroidery frames (hoops) designed to hold finished caps for embroidering. Cap frames are available for flatbed machines where the finished cap flattened for sewing and for use on arm or cylinder bed machines for sewing the cap in its natural curved shape.
Chainstitch
Stitch that resembles a chain link formed with one thread fed from the bottom side of the fabric. Done on a manual or computerized machine with a hook that functions like a needle.
Check Spring
Part of the needle thread tension assembly or tensioner that assists in properly controlling the needle thread to set a good stitch with minimum sewing interruptions. See also take-up spring.
Chenille
Form of embroidery in which a loop (moss) stitch is formed on the topside of the fabric. Uses heavy yarns of wool, cotton or acrylic. Created by a chainstitch machine that has been adjusted to form this stitch type. Also known as loop piling.
Column Stitch
Formed by closely placed zigzag stitches that are often used to form borders. Also commonly known as satin stitch.
Complex Fill
Refers to a digitizing capability that allows areas to be designated as voids at the same time the design’s edges, or perimeter points, are defined. The design can thus be digitized as one fill area, instead of being broken down into multiple sections.
Condensed Fill
Method of digitizing in which a design is saved in a skeletal form. A proportionate number of stitches may later be placed between defined points after scale, density, and stitch lengths in a design may be changed. See expanded format.
Cylinder Spring
Refers to machines with “cylinder” beds. The hook assembly is housed in a cylinder-shaped arm, allowing goods to curve around the cylinder for embroidery.
Design
Stitches that compose a pattern or monogram.
Design Library/Catalog
A computer program that catalogs a collection of digitized designs kept by embroidery shops allowing an embroiderer to access the design by subject, stitch count, number of colors, or icon.
Digitize
The computerized method of converting artwork into a series of commands to be read by an embroidery machine’s computer. Digitizing is extremely important and will determine the quality of the finished embroidery. Every action of the embroidery machine is controlled by the digitized program including the movement of the pantograph to form various stitches, thread changes, thread trims, and many other functions. See punching.
Digitizing Tablet
A computer-aided design device used by digitizers to plot needle penetration for embroidery designs. Typically, a pencil drawing of the design is enlarged and then taped to this tablet. The digitizer then uses a mouse to select stitch types, shapes, underlay, and actual needle penetrations.
Disk Reader
An external or internal device used to read the digitized program that determines the embroidery machine movements.
Emblem
Embroidered design with a finished edge; commonly an insignia of identification; usually worn on the outer clothing. Historically, an emblem carried a motto or verse or suggested a moral lesson. Also know as a crest or patch.
Embroidery
Embroidery is “thread art” used to embellish a garment, hat or some other product by adding a sewn pattern. Generally, this sewn pattern includes a design and can also include lettering and/or monograms.
Embroidery Machine
Today, embroidery machines can be defined as computer driven machines that move a pantograph with hooped items in various directions to form different stitches. Embroidery machines can be single-head units or come in multiples of heads with multiple needles per head for production embroidery applications.
Embroidery Point
Unit of measurement in embroidery in which 10 points equals 1mm or 1 point equals .1 mm.
Expanded Format
A design program in which individual stitches in a design have been specifically digitized for a certain size. Designs punched in this format cannot generally be enlarged or reduced more than 10 percent to 20 percent without distortion because stitch count remains constant.
Fill Stitches
One of the three most common stitches used in embroidery along with the run stitches and satin stitches. Fill stitches are used to cover large areas and they generally have a flat look. Altering the angle, length and direction of the stitched pattern can create different types of fill patterns.Finishing
Processes performed after embroidery is complete. Includes trimming loose threads, cutting or tearing away excess backing, removing topping, cleaning any stains, pressing or steaming to remove wrinkles or hoop marks and packaging for sale or shipment.
Flagging
Up-and-down motion of goods under action of the needle. It’s called flagging because of it resembles a waving flag. Often caused by improper hooping of goods, flagging may result in poor registration, unsatisfactory stitch format and birdnesting.
Flat Embroidery
Embroidery that is framed in hoops, usually exclusively on the top of the embroidery machine's hook assembly.
Format
Machine specific readable information.
Frame
Holding device for insertion of good under an embroidery head for the application of embroidery. May employ a number of means for maintaining stability during the embroidery process, including clamps, vacuum devices, magnets or springs. See Hoops.
Fringe
Threads that are cut and hang loosely from the edge of a design.
Hand
The way the fabric feels when it’s touched. Terms like softness, crispness, dryness and silkiness are all used to describe the hand of the fabric.
Hook assembly
Rotary device designed to pass the needle at a given point in the needle bar rise. The hook point passes into a thread loop formed by the rising needle bar and pulls the thread around the bobbin case to form a lock stitch.
Hook timing
Proper synchronization of hook's rotary and needle's up/down movement; necessary to form stitches.
Hook
Holds the bobbin case in the machine and plays a vital role in stitch formation. Making two complete rotations for each stitch, its point meets a loop of top thread at a precisely timed moment and distance (gap) to form a stitch.
Hooping Board
Device that aids in hooping garments or items for embroidery. Especially helpful for hooping multilayered items and for uniformly hooping multiple items. Board designed to hold the outer portion of the hoop while the goods to be embroidered are placed over the board to be hooped. One the goods are aligned and placed correctly over the outer hoop, the operator inserts the inner portion of the hoop.
Hoops
Devices made from wood, plastic or steel with which fabric is gripped tightly between an inner concentric ring and an outer ring. The hoop is attached to the machine’s pantograph. Machine hoops are designed to push the fabric to the bottom of the inner ring and hold it in close contact against the machine bed for embroidering.
Jump Stitch
Movement of the pantograph and rotation of the sewing head without the needle going down. Used to move from one point in a design to another without creating and cut and trim command with a lock stitch. Improves production efficiency and minimizes chances of knotting. Movement of the frame without stitching but with take-up lever and hook movement.
Kern
To add or delete space between pairs of adjacent characters
Lettering
Embroidery using letters or words. Lettering, commonly called “keyboard lettering,” may be created using an embroidery lettering program on a PC or from circuit boards that allow a variance of letter styles, sizes, heights, densities and other characteristics.
Lock Stitch
Commonly referred to as a lock-down or tack-down stitch, a lock stitch is formed by three or four consecutive stitches of at least a 10-point movement. It should be used at the end of any element in your design where jump stitches will follow, such as color change or the end of a design. May be stitched in a triangle, star or in a straight line. Also the name of the type of stitch formed by the hook and needle of home sewing machines, as well as computerized embroidery machines.
Logo
Name, symbol or trademark of a company or organization.
Looping
Loops on the surface of embroidery, generally caused by poor tension or tension problems. Typically occurs when polyester top thread or other threads have tensioning problems.
Machine Language
The codes and formats used by different machine manufacturers within the embroidery industry. Common formats include Barudan, Brother, Fortran, Happy, Marco, Meistergram, Melco, Pfaff, Stellar, Tajima, Toyota, Ultramatic and ZSK. Most digitizing systems can save designs in these languages so the computer disk can be read by the embroidery machine.
Monogram
Embroidered design composed of one or more letters, usually the initials of a name.
Nap
A fuzzy or downy surface of fabric covering either one side or both, produced by brushing.
Needle plate
The metal plate located above the hook assembly of an embroidery machine. This plate has a hole in the center through which the needle travels to reach the hook and form a stitch.
Needle
Small, slender piece of steel with a hole for thread and a point for stitching fabric. A machine needle differs from a handwork needle; the machine needle’s eye is found at its pointed end. Machine embroidery needles come with sharp points for piercing heavy, tightly woven fabrics; ball points, which glide between the fibers of knits; and a variety of specialty points, such as wedge points, which are used for leather.
Origin
The starting point of your design.
Pantograph
A bar, rack, or holder that frames or holding fixtures are attached to. The pantograph moves in X and Y directions to form the embroidery design, controlled electronically or mechanically depending on the machine.
Patches
Made from twill fabric, patches have a merrowed (heavy/thick) edge and an adhesive back (think boy/girl scout badges). Most embroidery shops don’t own a merrowing machine, so making patches from scratch isn’t an option, nor is it cost effective. One can still, however, supply them for the customer. Companies that specialize in making patches are plentiful, and the prices are much better than the average embroidery shop can manage. For the small odd jobs, though, blank patches are available in many shapes, colors and sizes.
Photo Stitch Designs
Created from a scanned photo; the photograph is imported into the digitizing software, and with a few keystrokes the design is digitized and ready to sew. The possibilities for uses are endless, ranging from portraits to buildings. A series of run stitches and loose fills are used to replicate a photograph with cloth and thread. Photo stitch designs are popular with individuals and corporations.
Piqué
A fabric of cotton or spun rayon woven lengthwise with raised cords. Used in sportswear and formal cotton shirt fabrics. Commonly used for polo shirts, as well as white tie events.
Placket
The opening of a shirt or jacket where the garment fastens or at a pocket. A reverse placket is the reversed opening for women’s garments.
Pre-tensioner
Thread tension assemblies that are before the main tension assembly in the thread path. The function of the pre-tensioner is to apply a light amount of tension in order to make the main tensioner work.
Presser foot
Metal device that touches the goods being embroidered while the needle is in the goods. The main function of the presser foot is to hold the material being embroidered until the hook point catches the thread loop formed by the needle rise.
Puckering
Result of the fabric being gathered by the stitches due to its tension being less than that of the stitches. Many possible causes include incorrect density, loose hooping, lack of backing, incorrect tension or dull needle.
Puff Embroidery
A technique popular in the early ’90s, which is becoming very popular again today. A special thick backing is placed in the hoop under the substrate, usually a sweatshirt. The design itself consists of light fill and blank spaces. The technique works great for names, with light fill separating letters that are negative. In the embroidery process, the blank spaces puff up and the area between them is flattened by the fill stitches.
Pull Compensation
A degree of distortion built into a design by the digitizer to compensate for pull on the fabric caused by the embroidery stitches and to adjust for differences in stitch or line width driven by fabric differences.
Punching
Conversion of artwork into a series of commands to be read by an embroidery machine’s computer. Derived from an early method of machine embroidery in which a part of the machine, called an automat, reads paper tapes, or Jacquards, punched with holes representing stitches, pantograph movements and other commands. While still capable of producing paper tape, many computer digitizing systems now store this information in disk format.
Registration
Correct registration is achieved when all stitches and design elements line up correctly. The ability to line up details and parts of the design correctly with each other.
Reverse Appliqué
A process in which the fabric is placed on the underside of the garment, and the garment is cut along the tack-down stitch so that the material shows through. Not nearly as easy as regular appliqué, the process, however, shouldn’t be discounted. The dimension that the technique provides is quite different from regular appliqué, and when your customer wants a unique look, this might be something to consider.
Running Stitch
Consists of one stitch between Point A and Point B. Used for outlining and fine details, outlines, and underlay, especially when details are too small to accommodate a satin stitch. Also known as a walk stitch.
Satin Stitch
Formed by closely arranged zigzag stitches. Can be laid down at any angle and with varying stitch lengths. Adapted from the blatt stitch, used in schiffli embroidery. A normal satin stitch is anywhere between 2mm and 12mm in width.
Scaling
Ability within one design program to enlarge or reduce a design. In expanded format, most scaling is limited to 10% to 20%, because the stitch count remains constant despite the final design size. In condensed or outline formats, scale changes may be more dramatic, because stitch count and density may be varied.
Scanning
Scanners convert designs into a computer format, allowing the digitizer to use even the most primitive artwork without recreating the design. Many digitizing systems allow the digitizer to transfer the design directly into the digitizing program without using intermediary software.
Short Stitch
A digitizing technique that places shorter stitches in curves and corners to avoid an unnecessarily bulky buildup of stitches or stitch density, particularly in corners or curves.
Short-stitch filter
Digitizing-program feature that eliminates stitches shorter than a predetermined length, to reduce thread breaks.
Specialty Fill
A fill which features a “relief” or motif design within the selected fill area and that is available with some digitizing software.
Stability
The property of a bonded fabric that prevents sagging, slipping or stretching. This is conducive to ease of handling in manufacturing, and helps the fabric to keep its shape in wear, dry cleaning and washing.
Stitch Count
The total number of stitches in a particular design.
Stitch Lengths
A variable setting for all stitch types – run, satin and fill.
Stitch processing
The calculation of stitch information by means of specialized software, allowing scaling of expanded format designs with density compensation.
Stitch Type
A wide variety of stitches are available, but in actuality, there are two basic stitch types – the run and satin stitch. All other types are a variation of these two.
Stock Designs
Digitized generic embroidery designs that are readily and commercially available at a cost below that of custom-digitized designs.
Swatch
A small sample of material used for inspection, comparison, construction, color, finish and sales purposes.
Tackle Twill
Letters or numbers cut from polyester or rayon twill fabric and sometimes with adhesive backing that are commonly used for athletic teams and organizations. Tackle twill appliqués attached to a garment have an adhesive backing that tacks them in place; the edges of the appliqués are then zigzag stitched.
Tassels
A group of long stitches, which dangle from a design. Most often used to embellish home décor.
Tatami Stitch
Series of run stitches, commonly used to cover large areas. Different fill patterns can be created by varying the stitch length, angle or sequence.
Tension
Tautness of thread when forming stitches. Top thread tension, as well as bobbin thread tension, needs to be set. Proper thread tension is achieved when about one-third of the thread showing on the underside of the fabric on a column stitch is bobbin thread.
Thread Count
The actual number of warp ends and filling picks per inch in a woven cloth. In knitted fabric, thread count implies the number of wales or ribs.
Thread
Fine cord of natural or synthetic fibers, made of two or more filaments twisted together, and used for stitching. Embroidery threads are available in a variety of types, including rayon, polyester, cotton, acrylic and metallics.
Topping
Material hooped or placed on top of fabrics that have definable nap or surface texture, such as corduroy, fleece and terry cloth. This is done prior to embroidery. The topping compacts the wale or nap and holds the stitches above it. Includes a variety of substances, such as plastic wrap, water-soluble plastic (e.g., “solvy”), “foil” and open-weave fabric that has been chemically treated to disintegrate with the application of heat. Also known as facing. The net effect is to create a smoother, more consistent embroidery surface for higher quality embroidery.
Trapunto
A form of 3-D embroidery. An area is stitched to create a pocket between the fabric and backing, which is then stuffed from the back with some type of fluffy filling.
Trimming
The series of actions in the finishing process that involves trimming the reverse and top sides of the embroidery, including jump stitches and backing.
Two-ply stitch
A double running stitch. The stitch is formed by the machine sewing a complete running stitch area and then coming back over the same area and stopping where it started. Sews from Point A to Point B and then from Point B to Point A.
Underlay
Stitches laid down before other design elements to help stabilize stretchy fabrics and to tack down high wales or naps on fabrics, so the design’s details don’t get lost. May also be used to create such effects as crowned, flat or raised areas in the embroidery, depending on how they are laid down. Underlay is normally a series of running stitches or a very light density fill stitch often placed in the opposite direction that the stitching will go.
Welt
A strip of material seamed to a pocket opening as a finishing as well as a strengthening device; a covered cord or ornamental strip sewn on a border or along a seam.
Zigzag Stitch
Stitches that go from one side of an area to be sewn, diagonally to the other side. Diagonals may be placed closely together to effectively form a satin stitch. Typically used for final stitching on appliqué or tackle twill.